Serves 4 to 6

Adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position and preheat the oven to 325°F. Season the short ribs generously with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or oven-safe pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add half of the short ribs and cook, without moving, until well browned on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the beef to a large plate. Repeat with the remaining tablespoon of oil and short ribs.

Pour off all but one tablespoon of fat, return the pot to the stove, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. (If the onions begin to darken too quickly, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water to the pan.) Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes more. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until fully absorbed by the onion-tomato mixture, about 1 minute.

Add the wine, broth, sugar, bay leaf, and thyme sprigs; increase heat to high and bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen browned bits. Add the short ribs and any accumulated juices to the pot and return to a boil. Cover the pot with a lid, transfer to the oven, and cook for 2 and a half hours.

When meat is fork-tender, remove from the sauce. Add balsamic vinegar and reduce the sauce until it thickens. To finish, return the meat to the sauce and warm through. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve over parsnip purée (recipe follows).

Add parsnips to a pot, season with salt, and cover with milk and cream. Add garlic, bay leaf, and thyme, turn to medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Cook until tender (the tip of a paring knife should easily go through without resistance), about 12 to 15 minutes.

Transfer parsnips to a food processor. Add butter and pour in enough of the milk mixture to purée the parsnips and achieve the texture of whipped cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.